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The storm had just broken, taking with it the August mugginess. I looked up from the balcony of my hotel across the dampened city of Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria. Directly in front of me, the golden domes of the huge Aleksandr Nevsky Cathedral were set against the dark sky. Twin rainbows arced above them as though the sky itself were part of the building’s design. Sofia is that kind of place.
There has been a settlement here near the Iskar River for at least 4,000 years, since the ancient Thracians settled a broad valley overshadowed by the towering Mount Vitosha to the south. A succession of empires, including the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman, molded Sofia, and their influence remains in the old buildings and ruins scattered around the city. Read more…